Exclusive Interview with Jean Christophe Le Grévès, Thirdman Brand Founder
In an exclusive blog post for Scentbird, Jean Christophe Le Grévès, Thirdman brand founder and olfactive visionary talks Eau Contemporaine line, EAU INEXPLICABLE and the essence of fine perfumery.
Jean-Christophe Le Grévès is creative advisor to the fragrance world behind renowned perfume launches.
With knowledge and background in marketing, arts and olfaction, he has brought his holistic approach to new brand development, holding senior positions at prominent global beauty specialized agencies and conglomerates. 20 years in creation and development with perfumers and prominent brands led him to identify a new territory of scents fit for a new generation of consumers.
He is deeply embedded in the arts as both a collector and an admirer. He is drawn to the balance between modernity and emotion, sensuality and simplicity. He draws inspiration from such minds as designers Eileen Gray, Mies Van Der Rohe, Philip Johnson, painters Caspar David Friedrich, Ellsworth Kelly, composers Philip Glass, Sergei Rachmaninoff, cineastes Alfred Hitchcock, Luchino Visconti or the Coen Brothers. These various art forms have inspired the creation of “L’Eau Contemporaine by Thirdman” line.
Like the line, his journey is transatlantic between cities such as London, Paris, and New York City.
A Creator’s Insight: EAU INEXPLICABLE, the latest creation in the Eau Contemporaine line by Thirdman
WHAT INSPIRES YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS
The line was born out of necessity, not purely artistic endeavor. The Eau Contemporaine by Thirdman was created out of a need to connect with scents differently, to explore a new form of sensorial pleasure through perfume. When developing a new ‘Eau Contemporaine’ we think in terms of sensations and ‘feel’ on skin and in wear, to make the experience truly individual, personal, enveloping and liberating altogether. To achieve such purpose, we believe in the design philosophy of 20th century Bauhaus and the principle that ‘Less is more’. Our formulae are created with a minimal approach privileging the uniqueness of specific high-end natural essences combined with the newness of certain molecules to bring extraordinary sensations.
WHAT IS AN ‘EAU CONTEMPORAINE’
Thirdman created the ‘Eau Contemporaine’ as a different category in Fine Perfumery next to the ‘Eau de Toilette”, Eau de Parfum” or Eau de Cologne” existing categories (in English: ‘Contemporary Scent’): the openness and liberating effect of a fresh Perfume or Cologne with the lingering character of an Eau de Parfum, without heaviness. Thirdman’s Eau Contemporaine scents have an optimal concentration (6 to 12%) which allows a generous use, and reintroduce the long-gone physical pleasure of applying liberally a scent without feeling overwhelmed. They can be chilled to give an even greater sensorial impact when sprayed.
They are fragrances to ‘live in’ rather than wear. Beyond their initial esthetic impact, they form a continuum with a person’s own skin and persona. A perfume should not be a mere accessory but a true and legitimate part of an individual’s Life.
WHO IS THIRDMAN
It is a collective of transatlantic perfumers and creatives who collaborate with a different perspective on perfume. In the shadow, the confidential group imagines scents as modernist creations for all epicureans who wish to wear perfumes differently, for those who no longer wear them, or those who never did.
EXPLAINING EAU INEXPLICABLE
Certain things in Life cannot be defined. Eau Inexplicable is one of them. It is more than the sum of its parts. Its lingering brightness is achieved without the conventional use of citrus essences but a rare combination of the purest Cedar, Vetiver and Patchouli extracts completed with French sage, Peruvian Pink Pepper and Egyptian Geranium. Innovative molecules add a comfortable and addictive ‘ghost’ effect.
The formula was created by fine perfumer Bruno Jovanovic, a close collaborator of the brand.
WHERE DO YOU SEE THE FINE PERFUMERY MARKET NOW?
Today’s fragrance industry has become extremely fragmented, with a multiplicity of product offers niche category included, making it more difficult for consumers to discern true quality and newness beyond immediately perceivable visual attributes and brand names.
Paradoxically the olfactory propositions, what is inside the bottle, to the exception of few brands, seem very similar. As marketing and ‘branding’ has increasingly governed the creation of perfumes, we believe that there are still relevant uncharted territories to explore.
We believe today’s consumer wish to relate with smell differently. The market is ready for a new form of luxury, less ostentatious and more personal and sensorial fulfillment through quality, olfactive innovation and noble simplicity.
WHAT MAKES A CULT FRAGRANCE
A Cult fragrance cannot be predicted, but it can be witnessed. Those scents that have achieved the status of Cult fragrances are often born at a key moment where they magically capture the universal subconscious in a feeling, highly relevant for the time but never expressed olfactively before. It is a scent with true modernity, born unique but loved widely.
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