Oud has long been one of the most prized ingredients in perfumery. Deep and unmistakably rich, this rare resin has been used for centuries across the Middle East and Asia, valued for both its scent and cultural significance. Today, oud is everywhere–from niche fragrance houses to major designer launches, including iconic scents by Tom Ford. So how did this once-hidden ingredient, relatively unknown in Western culture, become a global fragrance staple?
Read on to learn all about its history and discover the designers who helped bring oud into the spotlight, redefining how we experience it today–plus, our favorite oud fragrances to add to your Scentbird queue.
A Brief History of Oud: How It’s Made and Why It’s So Rare
Oud is actually a resin that comes from the Aquilaria tree, also known as agarwood. It is important to note that it forms only under specific conditions: when the tree becomes infected by a particular type of fungus, it produces an aromatic resin as a natural defense. Over time, this resin saturates the heartwood, creating the rich, complex scent known as oud.
While many associate oud with the Middle East, its origins trace back to Central and Southeast Asia, with some of the earliest recorded uses dating as far back as 1400 BCE. From there, it became deeply rooted in Middle Eastern culture, where it has long been valued for its use in perfumery, as well as in spiritual and medicinal practices. Today, oud remains one of the most prized ingredients in fragrance, so rare that it’s often referred to as “liquid gold.”
What Makes Oud So Special and What Does It Smell Like?
Oud is one of the most distinctive ingredients in perfumes, known for its rich, multi-layered scent profile. If you’re looking for something rich, smoky, intimate, and slightly sweet (because aren’t we all), this fragrance ingredient is worth exploring. On the skin, oud often evolves over time, often starting deep and intense before softening into a warmer finish. It also has a brooding quality that interacts with individual skin chemistry, amplifying natural muskiness in a way that feels intimate and luxurious. Plus points: oud is also incredibly long-lasting, lasting from 8 hours to a full 24 hours on the skin.
The Westernization of Oud: Tom Ford, Le Labo, and Bond No. 9
While oud has deep roots in the Middle East and Asia, its rise in Western culture is relatively recent–and who knew we could thank designers like Tom Ford for that shift?
The year was 2002. Together with perfumers Alberto Morillas and Jacques Cavallier, Tom Ford–then at the helm of creative direction at Yves Saint Laurent–introduced Western audiences to YSL M7. True to his reputation for pushing boundaries, the men’s fragrance featured what was, at the time, a “new” and unfamiliar ingredient: oud. The campaign was just as provocative, featuring a nude martial arts champion, Samuel de Cubber
What followed was a domino effect. Oud began appearing more prominently across both designer and niche fragrances: Tom Ford’s Oud Wood in 2007 (whose name now featured the ingredient, putting it front and center!), Oud 27 by Le Labo in 2009, and New York Oud by Bond No. 9 in 2011. Suddenly, the ingredient was in the spotlight, no longer a supporting character. What was once a niche ingredient has now entered the mainstream, and according to reports, is only getting more popular this 2026.
5 Oud Fragrances to Add to Your Scentbird Queue
1. CLEAN RESERVE Sueded Oud
Sueded Oud juxtaposes smokiness and airiness in the best way possible. Exotic and smoky, the fragrance also carries hints of honeysuckle, magnolia, cypress, and jasmine, its light florals balances the scent’s muskiness with a clean creaminess.
2. OCTAVIA MORGAN LOS ANGELES Casablanca
Warm and slightly exotic, Casablanca blends freesia and plum with amber, cashmere woods, and Madagascar vanilla. It’s smooth and sensual, easy to wear from day to night.
3. THAMEEN LONDON Carved Oud
Inspired by a 16-stage ancient Indian ritual that is found in temple carvings, this perfume also contains amber, cypress oil, cedarwood, and Guatemalan cardamom. It is an addictive, spicy scent that is perfect for nights out.
4. HERMETICA Verticaloud
Featuring two distinct notes–rose essence and oud–the perfume, which also contains notes of amber, raspberry, and leather, is a sophisticated musk that you won’t be able to get enough of.
5. MICHEL GERMAIN Sexual Oud Rouge
For something slightly more feminine, Sexual Oud Rouge does the trick. With notes of red perries, French pear nectar, and velvet rose, this perfume brings out the luxuriousness of oud.
