Scentbird, Inc., New York, NY 10001
Midnight Oud description
Oud is one of the notes in perfumery that takes some time to appreciate – its sharp, sweaty spice can quickly overwhelm your nose. For Western palates especially, Oud is a cranky scent that wants nothing to do with being “clean and fresh” – instead, it pulls you close, and coats the senses in a dry, disorienting layer of pungent aromas.
Oud is also considered a sacred spice in the Middle East (similar to smudging a house with sage), and used to purify and sanctify the body. And when seen in this mystical way, an oud fragrance takes on a symbolic depth that no other note can offer. Oud is the spiritual meeting the scented world.
Juliette Has a Gun’s Midnight Oud swaddles their oud in saffron and Moroccan rose, along with geranium to cool off oud’s noisier side. The saffron and geranium are very present in the opening, for an intriguing hot/cold top note tandem. The rose hovers over these two notes like the veil covering a woman’s face as she walks through a dusty Moroccan spice market.
The oud in Midnight Oud makes its appearance felt after a few minutes, and it twists around a strong patchouli note for an almost incense-like impression. The Moroccan rose in the top notes fades fairly quickly so the two spices can have the heart of this fragrance all to themselves. The oud and patchouli settle into a dry exchange of their sharp and serene facets until Midnight Oud achieves a meditative, humming balance in the heart that echoes for a couple of hours.
When the drydown begins, it is subtly sweet, tucking itself underneath the altar spices like a penitent prayer. The texture of the scent changes also – from bone-dry spice to a rounded, more mellow profile. One of the joys of Midnight Oud is the change in mood from serious to playful; ashy incense to imported candies. The amber and sandalwood are creamy and full compared to the heart spices, but the base also carries animalic musks to bridge between them.
Juliette Has a Gun’s Midnight Oud is an excellent choice for anyone curious about oud, but wants to keep their toes in the shallow end of the pool for now. Both sexes can wear this fragrance with ease, and it is more on the formal than casual side, and best worn with simple, elegant neutral tones so that the spices can add their own color to your look.