Scentbird, Inc., New York, NY 10001
L'Eau Couture description
Elie Saab L’Eau Couture is a clean but intoxicating mélange of powdered almonds, vanilla, and orange blossoms that wears as lightly as one of Elie Saab’s own creations for summer. Elie Saab’s gowns for the spring/summer shows are ethereal, with countless layers of frothy tulle and silk fluttering like birds’ wings around the bodies of the models. L’eau Couture wonderfully translates this ethereal quality into scent.
Francis Kurkdijan is once again the perfumer, his love of classic femininity and clean, sparkling florals putting him perfectly in line with the Elie Saab aesthetic. For L’Eau Couture, Kurkdijan wondered, “How do I do summer-fresh in a totally new way?”
His final vision for the fragrance was this: flowers springing to life through the concrete cracks of an urban jungle. It is fresh, yes, but the perfume does not owe its freshness to the usual citrus notes or white musk. Rather, it cleverly draws on the inherent chilliness of other notes to achieve the same effect.
Therefore, the scent does away with lemons and bergamot, relying instead on the chalky, neutral bitterness of powdered almonds to give the scent an icy feel. It also uses the peppery pungency of orange blossoms to suggest not honey or nougat, as is sometimes done, but the cool, creamy smell of expensive neroli soap. The orange blossoms add a hint of solar warmth, but it is the cool, dappled sunlight on a tanned shoulder rather than a full-on onslaught of sticky, honeyed heat.
Interestingly, there is also a thread of something green or mentholated running through the scent, lending a herbal freshness that keeps the fragrance buoyant. The end result is extremely fresh and clean, but because it uses none of the usual notes to get there, it doesn’t once feel boring or predictable.
The cool, soapy, green almond notes are bound together lightly by a luminous vanilla that feels more like a fine misting of vanilla bean in the atmosphere than the double cream version one usually gets in feminine fragrances. The dry woodiness of the vanilla accentuates the freshness of the orange blossom and the iciness of the almonds.
There is sillage for days. L’Eau Couture, although light, is also radiant.
Fresh to the point of being chilled, Elie Saab L’Eau Couture is the perfect choice for when you want to smell clean but also interesting. It is deeply feminine but also brisk enough to throw on and enjoy when you’re dressed down. A perfect way to wear white florals without drowning in sweetness!